Kamoshika Dōgu-ten Ceramic Mortar

A Japanese mortar, or suribachi / すり鉢, for grinding sesame, spices and sauces, and handsome enough to take straight to the table. It comes from Kamoshika Dōgu-ten, the kitchenware label of the Yamaguchi Tōki pottery in Mie, Japan.

Most suribachi have fine grooves combed into the inside. They grip whatever you're grinding, but they hold on to it too, and anyone who has picked sesame out of the ridges with a cocktail stick will know the feeling. Kamoshika's makers took the grooves away. The base is flat and the walls rise more steeply than usual, so seeds and spices are crushed against the sides and stay in the bowl. Everything comes out with one sweep of a spatula, and washing up takes a moment.

The wide, weighty foot has a lightly textured finish that sits steady on the worktop, so both hands can stay on the pestle rather than one holding the rim. A small pouring lip is useful if what ever is grounded is turned into a sauce or dressing.

We like it best for goma-ae: grind the sesame, add a pinch of sugar and soy sauce, toss in the greens, and serve it in the same bowl.

Two sizes

• Medium — the everyday kitchen size. For sesame, walnuts, miso, dressings and sauces, and a side dish for the table.
• Small — the spice mortar. Made for spices and anything you only need a little of: a few peppercorns, cumin or coriander seed, a clove of garlic, citrus zest, a single portion of dressing. Between uses it makes a pretty condiment dish or spoon rest.

How to use

Rest one hand on top of the pestle and hold the middle with the other. Keeping the top steady, circle the end of the pestle around the wall of the bowl.

*Pestle is sold separately.